Sagara
Cordmaster
Standard & Strange
After winning the pair, I spoke to Neil on the phone and he led me to the Cordmasters on the website. My first pick would have been the same boot, but in Black, as my previous Dome boots are the only other brown boot in my wardrobe. However, they were sold out with an uncertain restocking date. I selected the Toscanello Horsebutt instead, but requested reverse medial quarter panels. I personally love mismatching shoes (that are still clearly a pair) and knew that I wanted to get something that felt “like me”, if possible. Plus, I have a soft spot for roughout and it’s one of my favourite materials to watch age/patina. Stylistically, I was excited to try out a monkey boot for the first time and they didn’t disappoint! They’re not subtle, and definitely not a common fixture in women’s fashion (especially not in this shape/last). I love em.
With the help of a friend (who is a shoemaker!), I sent my foot tracings and measurements to S&S, who passed them along to Sagara. Bagus made a sizing recommendation, which made sense with my brannock size, so I confirmed the sizing and we went ahead. It was my first time having boots made for me, beyond ones I made myself, so I’m grateful that the sizing has been spot on.
I don’t have any real complaints! I connected with Neil in June 2022, after having won the pair through the first year of the Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome (#17). I got my sizing sent over in September and we confirmed it in November. At the time, I was quoted about “4 months but could be sooner”. They ended up arriving at my apartment in August 2023. Perhaps because I work in the industry, or own a small business, but none of this phased me. I’m grateful to have won a pair, and felt like I was in good hands with the S&S team. My intention was always to wear them in the next Dome (since I buy a new pair of boots every 2-5 years usually), so I wasn’t chomping at the bit.
I’ve been wearing them everywhere I go! Dominantly, that’s about 40hrs a week at the shop. Everything from glueing to trimming on customer’s shoes (standing), to altering leather garments (sitting while sewing), and maintaining all of our machines (crawling around!). Beyond work, I’ve been wearing them on walks, errands, seeing family and friends and driving (but just the left boot for that! 😅). Vancouver had an uncharacteristically dry winter season. It felt especially noticeable this year as we have a constant visual reminder (as we can see the ski hills from the city). Beyond the rain, my pair hasn’t seen any snow yet! This felt like a stark contrast from my first year competing (y1), where my boots saw a lot of inclement conditions! Finally, I’ve found them unbearably warm with any slightly thicker socks, but I’m on my feet and moving most of the day.
This was my first pair of horsebutt (or anything horse), and I’ve been won over. I love the rolls that have formed on the shaft (and to a lesser extent, at the base of the quarters towards the toecap). It’s taken the inevitable scuffing well, bouncing back without concern. Roughouts are my favourite to watch patina, I dig the dark spots, the flat spots, everything. The first week I wore them, my whole foot felt bruised - everywhere. I had that deep dread feeling, that I’ve only read about on the Stitchdown Discord, about people who have had to abandon ship early due to fit issues. I spent the following week back in my beloved Birkenstock Bostons before taking another swing at it. Thankfully a week of rest was what I needed and I didn’t have any other break in issues! Care-wise, they’ve been conditioned once (Huberd’s), brushed often and rinsed down a couple times (tap water and ocean water 🙃). Before taking my final Dome photos, I gave them a simple hand polish with neutral shoe cream, and re-sealed the sole edges. I thought the intense “leather smell” would have fade on them by now, but that hasn’t happened yet. I don’t know if that’s common on horse, a weird quirk of Sagara, or this leather.
The fit has been solid. Split sizing was the correct choice for me. The toes are roomy and after squeezing into too-narrow shoes my whole life, the width is perfect. There isn’t any added arch support, however I have worn them with my Birkenstock “blue sports insole” when I’ve wanted additional support.
I’m really pleased with it! They feel incredibly solid (both in the hand and on the foot). The finishing was super clean, the sole edges were crisp, and the lining is super smooth. I’m biased (since I chose it), but I think the reverse horsebutt quarter was a great design choice! It made them a more unique pair, while still relying on the S&S makeup to do the heavy lifting.
It’s been grippy enough for what I need and isn’t showing wear rapidly- just what I’m seeking in a sole. I don’t think it would have a place on most of my collection stylistically, but I love the chonk it adds to these.
I love that doming this pair has felt like coming full circle, having won it in the first Thunderdome. I haven’t bought a new pair since starting to Dome, and feel a bit like I carry a different attitude towards boots compared to many people in this community. Call me crazy, but I kind of consider it a similar choice to adopting a shelter dog or getting a pup from a breeder. There’s so many dogs out there in the world that already exist and I feel the same usually about boots. However, this was my first time sending foot tracings and getting a “handmade” (small batch) pair. I can only imagine it’s a joy that many people feel from getting a puppy from a breeder! It’s been a really special experience and one I won’t forget. Plus, it’s one I would have never gotten had I not competed in the Thunderdome the first time. Anyways! Thanks again.